Vitamin C
INCI: Ascorbic Acid
Also known as: L-ascorbic acid, Vitamin C, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate (derivative)
Last updated:
Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its many derivatives are permitted globally in cosmetics without specific concentration restrictions. Most formulations use 5-20% L-ascorbic acid, or 3-10% of more stable derivatives like sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, or tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. The molecule is well-characterized and has an extensive safety record.
Regulatory status by market
| Market | Status | Detail | Source |
|---|---|---|---|
| European Union | Permitted | — | Not on Annex II or III |
| United Kingdom | Permitted | — | UK Cosmetics Regulation |
| United States | Permitted | — | CIR review |
| Canada | Permitted | — | Not on Hotlist |
Safety profile
Ascorbic acid is well-tolerated topically. At high concentrations and low pH (required for stability of L-ascorbic acid) it can cause stinging and irritation in sensitive skin. The primary formulation challenge is stability — ascorbic acid oxidizes quickly in the presence of water, air, and light. CIR has reviewed ascorbic acid and its derivatives and concluded they are safe at current cosmetic use levels.
Common uses
- Brightening and antioxidant serums
- Anti-aging creams (paired with vitamin E and ferulic acid)
- Pigmentation treatments
Primary sources
Regulatory status is current to the "Last updated" date above. Always verify against the regulator's authoritative publication for the specific market and product category before relying on this summary for compliance decisions.
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